A PET PRODUCTS
TRADING COMPANY
Ever since our launch in 1982, we have been industry leaders in research and development. We are proud to be a UK-based, multi-award winning manufacturer of effective water treatments, medicines, test kits and foods servicing the koi, pond, tropical and marine markets. Our company name reflects this commitment to revolutionary thinking, after all the ‘NT’ of NT Labs stands for New Technology.
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In 2007, we became fully licenced with the Veterinary Medicines Directorate for small animal medicines (SAM0001). As you can see from our SAM number, we were the first manufacturer in the UK to obtain this licence to produce veterinary medicines for ornamental fish in the UK. This heritage is something we are incredibly proud of and shows our dedication and commitment to what we do. In order to manufacture medicines for the treatment of animals, it is essential that we are fully licensed and compliant to the high VMD requirements. Within the industry, some companies choose to outsource the manufacturing of medicines so that they don’t need to obtain a licence, but we are proud to be leading the way and doing all of this in-house.
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Alongside our VMD licence, we are also fully compliant with Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP), meaning that we are dedicated providers of top quality products for our customers. Behind the brand, there is a team of biologists, production, quality control, sales and marketing professionals all based at our facility in the south east of England.
Aquarium Lab - Water Testing Kits
Aquarium Lab Multi-Test
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The main factor in successful fish keeping and health lies in the maintenance of good water quality. Ammonia, nitrite and pH levels in the aquarium should be checked regularly. The Aquarium Lab Multi-Test Kit comprises up to 200 tests combined of the 6 key parameters to test in your aquarium: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, GH and KH. All the tests are liquid drop tests from a dropper bottle so all the drops are the same size. Full instructions are included detailing optimum levels and suggestions for correction, along with an integrated test tube rack. All you have to do is add your aquarium water to the test tube and count the drops needed. The back of the box details clear pictorial instructions so you can see what to do from the start. A set of colour coded stickers is provided to label both the test tubes and test tube lids so you always conduct the same test in the same test tube avoiding contamination.
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This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NH3-N), (NO2-N) or (NO3-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 1.21 (NH3-N), 3.29 (NO2-N), or 4.43 (NO3-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
Narrow pH Test​
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What is pH?
For fish with specific pH requirements or for general tropical community aquaria requiring a neutral pH, the pH 6–7.6 Test provides quick and accurate pH measurement. It also offers precision with 0.2 unit determination.
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What is the correct pH level?
There is no definitive correct pH as different fish species have their preferred pH range. Generally, the ideal pH value will lie between 7 and 8, but there are some exceptions. When purchasing fish from your local aquatic retailer, always enquire as to the specific water requirements of the fish you are buying.
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What do I do if the level is wrong?
If you do need to adjust the pH of your aquarium, it is vital to do this slowly to not shock the fish. Change no more than 0.5 pH units per 2 days. Providing your tap water is of suitable pH, substantial water changes can correct a dangerous pH level. It is also important to check the KH of the aquarium. Use of pH adjusters, such as KH Up – pH Stabiliser will raise the pH caused by soft or aged water. For fish that live in soft, acid water use bogwood to gently lower the pH and soften the water.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Add 5 drops of the pH reagent; replace the test tube cap and shake thoroughly.
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Compare the colour of your sample to the colour scale provided.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Broad pH Test​
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What is pH?
For fish with specific pH requirements or for general tropical community aquaria requiring a neutral pH, the pH 6–7.6 Test provides quick and accurate pH measurement. It also offers precision with 0.2 unit determination.
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What is the correct pH level?
There is no definitive correct pH as different fish species have their preferred pH range. Generally, the ideal pH value will lie between 7 and 8, but there are some exceptions. When purchasing fish from your local aquatic retailer, always enquire as to the specific water requirements of the fish you are buying.
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What do I do if the level is wrong?
If you do need to adjust the pH of your aquarium, it is vital to do this slowly to not shock the fish. Change no more than 0.5 pH units per 2 days. Providing your tap water is of suitable pH, substantial water changes can correct a dangerous pH level. It is also important to check the KH of the aquarium. Use of pH adjusters, such as KH Up – pH Stabiliser will raise the pH caused by soft or aged water. For fish that live in soft, acid water use bogwood to gently lower the pH and soften the water.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Add 5 drops of the pH reagent; replace the test tube cap and shake thoroughly.
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Compare the colour of your sample to the colour scale provided.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Hardness Test
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What is KH?
KH, also known as “total alkalinity” or “carbonate hardness”, is a measure of the buffering capacity of the water in your aquarium. The buffering capacity refers to how well it can resist changes in pH.
What is GH?
General Hardness is a measure of the total amount of minerals dissolved in the water. Water hardness lies on a spectrum between ‘soft water’ or ‘hard water’ depending on the amount of dissolved minerals: the more minerals present, the greater the hardness. Hard water is responsible for the build-up of limescale.
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KH in detail:
What is the correct KH level?
This test kit measures KH in dKH (where one dKH = 17.8 ppm as CaCO3). It is essential to maintain a minimum KH level of at least 4 dKH at all times. A KH of between 6 and 8 dKH is more desirable.
What do I do if the KH level is wrong?
Check the KH level of your tap water. If the level is above 6 dKH, then regular water changes should keep the KH value in the aquarium topped up at a reasonable level. If the KH value of your tap water is below 6 dKH, you will need to add a KH buffer such as KH Up – pH Stabiliser to your aquarium/pond.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5 ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Take the KH reagent and add one drop, mix and the water sample should turn pale blue.
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Keep adding drops, one by one (remember to count the drops), mixing between drops, until the blue colour turns to yellow. The number of drops, including the first drop, needed to bring about the colour change is equal to the KH value in dKH. Should the first drop of reagent turn the sample yellow then the KH value is below 1 dKH – this is extremely dangerous for fish.
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GH in detail:
What is the correct GH level?
This test kit measures GH in dGH (where one degree = 17.8 ppm as CaCO3). The correct GH depends on the type of fish being kept. For soft water species, aim for a GH of around 3 to 6 dGH, while for hard water species, 10 to 15 dGH is the correct range.
What do I do if the GH level is wrong?
Test the GH of your tap water. The GH of tap water is determined by whether you live in a hard or soft water area. If the water is too hard for the fish being kept, alternative waters can be used, such as reverse osmosis water, to lower the GH. To increase the GH for aquarium fish, calcium carbonate rocks (like ocean rock) can be used to provide a continual source of GH minerals.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5 ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Take the GH A reagent and add two drops.
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Mix and the water sample should turn dark pink. Adding one drop of reagent GH B at a time, mixing between drops, count the number of drops required for the solution to change from pink to blue.
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The number of drops needed to bring about the colour change is equal to the GH value in dGH. Should the first drop of GH B reagent turn the sample blue then the GH value is below 1 dGH and indicates very soft water.
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FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Ammonia Test​
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What is ammonia?
Ammonia is the main waste product produced by fish as a result of feeding. It can also be generated by the decay of uneaten food or decaying organic matter, such as plant leaves. It is invisible to the naked eye and its presence or absence cannot be determined by looking at the water alone. It is extremely toxic to the fish but is broken down into less toxic nitrite by the beneficial bacteria found in the filter.
What is the correct ammonia level?
There is no occasion where any ammonia is tolerable. A level of zero mg/l (ppm) should be maintained at all times.
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What do I do if the ammonia level is wrong?
If a level of 0.2 mg/l (ppm) is found, add a filter booster such as Filter Starter. If a level above this is found, then a substantial water change is essential. Change 25% of the volume for 0.5 – 1.0 mg/l (ppm) ammonia and 50% for ammonia levels above this. Add Ammonia Remover to the filter compartment to remove ammonia. If any amount of ammonia is found, then it is important to check other vital water quality parameters, in particular pH, KH and nitrite.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5 ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Add 5 drops of the reagent Ammonia 1, 5 drops of Ammonia 2 and 5 drops of Ammonia 3.
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Replace the test tube cap and shake thoroughly. Wait 10 minutes, then compare the colour of the sample to the colour scale provided. Zero ammonia is represented by a yellow colour. Any hint of green in the sample indicates the presence of ammonia in the water.
This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NH3-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 1.21 (NH3-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
Q: My Ammonia 2 reagent has turned blue, is it still okay to use? A: Our Ammonia 2 reagent can take on a blue colour with time, but it does not affect he performance or results of the test. As long as the test kit is still within date, you can be confident in the reliability of the results it produces.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Nitrate Test​
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What is nitrate?
Nitrate is produced by the beneficial bacteria in the water and filters as they break down the fish’s toxic waste products (ammonia and nitrite). Nitrate is not typically toxic to fish, but excessively high levels (>100mg/l) can cause problems with growth.
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What is the correct nitrate level?
The level of nitrate is dependent upon a number of factors, including the nitrate level of the tap water (or spring water etc) feeding into the aquarium, the number of fish and the amount of food fed. High nitrate levels will lead to algal growth. A nitrate level of zero is ideal and implies a balance between waste produced by the fish and nutrients taken up by the plant life. Remember: this plant life does include algae.
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What do I do if the nitrate level is wrong?
Maintenance of a zero level of nitrate is extremely difficult. Most domestic water supplies have a low level of nitrate. The key to maintenance of low nitrates is regular water changes to dilute the build up of nitrate. Also, increasing the higher plant life in the aquarium should use up nitrate. This will lower the amount of nitrate available to algae.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5 ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Turn the Nitrate-1 bottle upside down in plenty of light and shake vigorously until there is no sediment on the bottom.
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Add 6 drops of the Nitrate-1 and 6 drops of the Nitrate-2. Replace the test tube cap and shake thoroughly.
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Wait 10 minutes, and then compare the colour of the sample to the colour scale provided. Zero nitrate is represented by a colourless sample. Any hint of pink in the sample indicates the presence of nitrate in the aquarium.
This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NO3-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 4.43 (NO3-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
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FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Nitrite Test​
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What is nitrite?
Nitrite is produced by beneficial filtration bacteria as they break down the harmful waste ammonia excreted by the fish. Like ammonia, it is not visible to the naked eye. Although it is not as toxic as ammonia, nitrite is still very damaging to the health of the fish. Nitrite itself is broken down into nitrate, which is practically harmless to fish.
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What is the correct nitrite level?
There is no occasion where any nitrite is tolerable in an aquarium. A level of zero mg/L (ppm) should be maintained at all times.
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What do I do if the Nitrite level is wrong?
If 0.25 – 0.5 mg/l (ppm) of nitrite is found, then add Filter Starter. If a level above this is recorded, then a substantial water change is essential. Change 25% of the water volume for 1 mg/l (ppm) nitrite and 50% for nitrite levels above this. If any level of nitrite is detected Ammonia Remover will remove ammonia (and thus nitrite) from the water and can be recharged. If you do record a nitrite level, then it is important to check other vital water quality parameters, especially pH and ammonia.
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How to use?
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Ensure the test tube is clean.
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Take a 5 ml sample of water into the test tube.
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Add 5 drops of the Nitrite reagent.
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Replace the test tube cap and shake thoroughly.
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Wait 2 minutes, then compare the colour of the sample to the colour scale provided. Zero nitrite is represented by a colourless sample. Any hint of pink in the sample indicates the presence of nitrite in the water. Any colour forming after the two minutes should be ignored.
This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NO2-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 3.29 (NO2-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in freshwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Marine Lab - Water Testing Kits
Marine Multi-Test​
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Marine Multi-Test comprises everything you need to carry out 155 tests (combined) of the 4 key water parameters to keeping a healthy marine aquarium: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate & pH. All tests use liquid reagents for improved accuracy. Full instructions are included detailing optimum levels and suggestions for correction, along with an integrated test tube rack. Simply follow the easy-to-read pictorial instructions and compare the test tube to the colour chart. Complete with 4 test tubes and a set of colour coded stickers to allow you to label both the test tubes and lids to ensure the same test is always carried out in the same test tube to avoid contamination.
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This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NH3-N), (NO2-N) or (NO3-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 1.21 (NH3-N), 3.29 (NO2-N), or 4.43 (NO3-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
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FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in saltwater aquariums, click here.
Reef Multi-Test​
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Reef Multi-Test comprises everything you need to carry out up to 145 tests (combined) of the 4 key water parameters to maintain a healthy and thriving reef aquarium: KH, magnesium, calcium & phosphate. The tests are a mixture of liquid drop and titration tests for improved accuracy and come with all the equipment required to carry out the tests including syringes, pipettes and titration vessels. Full instructions are included detailing optimum levels and suggestions for correction. As well as the colour charts, the back of the box also details easy to follow step-by-step pictorial instructions. Colour coded stickers for the syringes and titration vessels are also included to ensure the same test is always carried out with the same equipment to avoid contamination. The Reef Multi-Test is designed to be used alongside the Marine Multi-Test to provide a full testing system for your reef aquarium.
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FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in saltwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
pH Test​
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What is pH?
The pH is the measure of how acidic or alkaline water in your aquarium is. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. Very acidic water is pH 0 and very alkaline water is pH 14, while water that is neither acid or alkaline is pH 7 and described as neutral.
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Why test for pH?
Most marine organisms have evolved to optimally live in a narrow pH range. Deviations away from their preferred pH can result in stress, poor health and ultimately, death. As aquarium water tends to acidify with age, regularly testing the pH of the water is the only reliable method of ensuring that the pH is correct for the aquarium’s inhabitants.
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What is the correct pH level in my aquarium?
The pH in a marine aquarium should be approximately 8.3. In addition to meeting this pH range, a stable pH is equally important. Rapid fluctuations in pH can be just as detrimental as the wrong pH. As KH (carbonate hardness) is strongly correlated with the stability of the pH, KH should also be monitored at the same time as pH.
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What to do if my pH is wrong?
If the pH is outside of the desired range, test and ensure that the KH is also correct. To safely increase the pH and the KH, use Marine Buffer Powder. When the KH is correct, the pH should return to the normal range. Excessively high pH (and KH) can be caused by inappropriate décor or overuse of some calcium supplements; identify the precise cause and carry out partial water changes to dilute high KH and restore the pH to the required range.
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How to test for pH?
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Add 5 ml of water to be tested into the test tube provided. The middle mark on the test tube indicates 5 ml.
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Add 5 drop of the pH reagent to the test tube, cap the test tube and then shake.
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Immediately view the test tube from the side and compare to the colour chart to determine the pH of the water.
To find out more about water quality and parameters in saltwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Ammonia Test​
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What is ammonia?
Most ammonia generated in an aquarium is the result of the digestion of proteins by fish and other aquarium animals. Ammonia can also be released by the bacterial breakdown of excess food and other organic matter. It is extremely toxic to fish and invertebrates, especially in a marine aquarium due to the higher pH found in saltwater. Ammonia is broken down into nitrite by the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium filter or live rock and then subsequently into relatively harmless nitrate.
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Why test for ammonia?
Low concentration of ammonia can cause respiratory and skin irritation to fish, while greater concentrations can lead to damage and ultimately death. Toxic ammonia can build up in aquariums where there are insufficient nitrifying bacteria to process the waste from the fish. This situation can commonly arise in new aquariums, when new fish are added, when the filter bacteria has been disrupted (e.g. during cleaning), or during accidental mis-dosing of aquarium medications.
What is the correct level of ammonia?
Ammonia should be kept at 0 mg/l at all times. Any positive ammonia reading likely indicates a problem with the aquarium and should be addressed.
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What to do if the ammonia level is wrong?
If any ammonia is detected in your aquarium, use water changes to immediately dilute ammonia. Ensure that there is no uneaten food or decaying matter in the aquarium and use Live Filter Bacteria to help colonise the filter and restart the biological filtration.
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How to test for ammonia?
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Use the 1 ml pipette provided to measure 1 ml of water to be tested into the test tube.
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Add 5 drops of Ammonia-1 reagent.
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Add 5 drops of Ammonia-2 reagent.
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Add 5 drops of Ammonia-3 reagent.
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Cap the test tube and shake well to mix.
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Wait for 10 minutes for the colour to develop.
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Once the 10 minutes has elapsed, view the test tube from the side and compare to the colour chart to determine the amount of ammonia present in the water.
This test kit reports concentration in terms of nitrogen (NH3-N) to be compatible with reported safe concentrations as they apply to fish and plants. If you are interested in knowing the ionic concentration of the measured parameter, multiply your result by 1.21 (NH3-N). For more information on this calculation, click here.
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FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
Q: My Ammonia 2 reagent has turned blue, is it still okay to use? A: Our Ammonia 2 reagent can take on a blue colour with time, but it does not affect the performance or results of the test. As long as the test kit is still within date, you can be confident in the reliability of the results it produces.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in saltwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Phosphate Test​
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What is phosphate?
Phosphate is an essential component in fish nutrition, but is also produced as a waste product by fish. Phosphate is practically non-toxic to fish, but excess phosphate can cause unwanted algae and will inhibit coral growth.
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Why test for phosphate?
Maintaining a low level of phosphate is essential for reducing unwanted algae and maintaining coral growth rates. Phosphate tends to accumulate as an aquarium ages, so regular monitoring of phosphate is required to determine the health of the aquarium.
What is the correct level of phosphate?
Phosphate in natural seawater generally varies from 0.01 mg/l to 0.06 mg/l (in terms of phosphorus) in reef areas. However, in a reef aquarium, aim for 0.03 mg/l to maintain good coral growth and keep nuisance algae at to a minimum.
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What to do if the phosphate level is wrong?
Regular maintenance and use of partial water changes with a good quality reef salt should help to keep phosphate low. To remove additional phosphate, use of Phosphate Remover in your filter or add Anti-Phos liquid regularly to instantly remove phosphate.
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How to test for phosphate?
• Using the syringe provided, add approximately 5 ml of water to the glass test tube. Cap the test tube and shake briefly to wash the test tube. Uncap the test tube and discard this water.
• Add 10 mL (2 x 5 ml using the syringe) to the test tube. 3. Add 10 drops of Phosphate-1 Reagent.
• Add 10 drops of Phosphate-2 Reagent.
• Cap the test tube and shake well to mix.
• Wait for 5 minutes for the colour to develop.
• Once the 5 minutes has elapsed, uncap the test tube. View from the top and compare to the colour chart to determine the amount of phosphate present in the water.
FAQs:
Q: Why do I run out of 1 reagent before the other(s)? A: We fill our test kit reagent bottles to a minimum amount before they are put through a vigorous QC regime. This means that the vast majority of bottles will in fact be overfilled by varying amounts meaning that the reagents may well run out at different rates but you should be able to carry out at least the number of tests stated on the packaging.
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To find out more about water quality and parameters in saltwater aquariums, click here.
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For common frequently asked questions, click here.
Aquarium Range - Water Treatments and Medicines
Tap Water Safe
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When to use?
Tap Water Safe removes chlorine and other halogens, chloramine and heavy metals found in tap water, which are toxic to fish. Tap Water Safe also contains a special protective coating that reduces stress caused by transportation of fish.
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Use when filling a new aquarium and anytime when adding fresh tap water i.e. during a water change. Also use when moving fish from one place to another: simply add to the transport bags.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose in the new water before adding it to the aquarium.
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Add slowly to aquarium.
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Product works immediately to remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water.
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Warning: Do not use this product within 24 hours of using Anti-Internal Bacteria.
Filter Starter
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When to use?
If left, fish waste will build up and become toxic. Filter Starter contains Bacillus megaterium, B. pumilis, B. licheniformis, Paenbacillius polymyxa, Nitrosomonas spp., Nitrobacter spp., and Nitrospira spp. These friendly filter bacteria break down fish waste, making the water safe for fish.
Add to a new aquarium to help ‘kick-start’ the filter, when adding new fish, after a filter clean/water change, or after using a disease treatment.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (Length x Width x Depth (in cm)/1,000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Bacteria starts working immediately, improving the performance of the filter.
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Repeat dose weekly for 4 weeks when starting a new aquarium or a single dose after each water change.
Liquid Filter
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When to use?
When the water is cloudy, the billions of microparticles in Liquid Filter rapidly disperse throughout the aquarium and act like powerful miniature magnets to clarify the water, leaving it visibly clearer than before.
After completing a disease treatment, Liquid Filter can also help to reduce medication residues and also lower harmful pathogenic bacteria.
After a water change, Liquid Filter can help to replenish essential minerals and remove heavy metals present in tap water.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000 Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Add the dose to an area of the aquarium with water movement such as the filter inlet.
Aquarium Starter Kit​
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When to use?
This pack contains the two products needed to get your aquarium up and running and safe for fish, Tap Water Safe, and Filter Starter.
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How to use:
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Once all of the aquarium gravel, decorations and hardware have been washed and placed in the aquarium, fill your aquarium with tap water.
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Add 5ml per 25 litres of Tap Water Safe to the aquarium.
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Switch on the lights, filter (and if starting a tropical aquarium, a heater set to 22-25oC).
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Once the water is at the right temperature, your aquarium is ready for a few fish. Ask your retailer about the best fish to add to your new aquarium.
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The day you add fish to your aquarium, add 5ml of Filter Starter to every 25 litres of aquarium water. Repeat dose after each water change. When adding fish follow the instructions provided by your fish retailer.
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Do not overfeed your new fish. For the first month, only feed once every other day until the filter matures (2-3 granules of food per fish is plenty). Monitor the quality of the water twice weekly throughout this time, especially for ammonia and nitrite using NT Labs Test Kits and conduct 25% water changes weekly for 4 weeks remembering to use Tap Water Safe.
Plant Boost
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When to use?
Live plants require light and nutrients to grow. Whilst your aquarium light will provide one element, plants will rapidly consume nutrients from the water. These nutrients must be replaced to ensure your plants continue to grow and thrive.
Plant Boost can be used every day to maintain healthy plant growth. Don’t forget that plants need between 12-15 hours of light a day.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (Length x Width x Depth (in cm)/1,000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Turn dispenser to unlock, then press down on the pump to dispense.
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Product works immediately encouraging even sickly plants into healthy growth.
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For best results: Use in conjunction with Liquid CO2 Boost to provide complete fertilisation for your plants.
Liquid Co2 Boost
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When to use?
All plants need carbon to grow. Aquatic plants obtain their carbon through CO2 dissolved in water. With Liquid CO2 Boost, plants will grow more vigorously, removing algae-causing macronutrients such as nitrate and phosphate.
Use daily, or every other day, to provide plants with a regular and consistent supply of carbon.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Turn dispenser to unlock, then press down on the pump to dispense.
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For best results: Use in conjunction with Plant Boost to provide the trace elements and micronutrients required for healthy plant growth.
Algae Gone
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When to use?
Green water/algae caused by over feeding and fish waste is unsightly in an aquarium, and can be dangerous as it may alter the pH and oxygen levels. Algae Gone is a single-dose, plant-friendly treatment that will clarify the green or cloudy water in your aquarium. It works by clumping the minute particles together enabling your filter to strain them out.
Algae Gone will also help to lower algae- causing phosphate, thereby promoting a healthier aquatic environment. Use when the water has become green or cloudy.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (Length x Width x Depth (in cm)/1,000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose of treatment with 1 litre of aquarium water.
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Add slowly to aquarium.
Anti-Ulcer and Finrot
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When to use?
Certain species of bacteria such as Aeromonas and Pseudomonas cause fin, mouth and body tissue to be eaten away. Early diagnosis is essential to prevent the infection becoming fatal.
Use when fish have red wounds, ulcers, missing scales, red blotches, rotting fins or eroded mouth tissue.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose of treatment with 1 litre of aquarium water.
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Add slowly to aquarium.
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Warning:
This product will colour the water yellow. It will also stain skin and clothing, but is harmless to the filter bacteria and all species of fish and plants. Wait until the colour has faded, or at least 5 days, before carrying out water changes except in an emergency.
Anti-Internal Bacteria​
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When to use?
Certain species of bacteria such as Pseudomonas, Aeromonas and Vibrio bacteria can infect fish internally, causing an array of symptoms.
Use when fish become lethargic, have clamped fins, stop eating and have red blotches on fins or under body.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose of treatment with 1 litre of aquarium water.
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Add slowly to aquarium.
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This treatment can be repeated every other day up to four applications if necessary.
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If the aquarium water has a KH of 12 dKH or more and a pH of 7.5 or more, the dose can be doubled.
Anti-White Spot and Fungus
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When to use?
White spot is a protozoan parasite; the adults live on the fish and appear as tiny white spots. The adult has a complex life cycle which results in hundreds of free-swimming juveniles looking for a host fish to infest.
Use when small white spots, like grains of salt, can be seen scattered on the body of the fish, if the fish are showing signs of irritation and rubbing on objects in the aquarium, fish have a grey, velvety film all over the body, or fish have white cotton wool-like growths on their body/mouth/ fins.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose of treatment with 1 litre of aquarium water. Add slowly to aquarium.
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Warning:
This product will colour the water green and will also stain skin and clothing. The colour in the aquarium will fade a few days after the course has finished. Water changes can be carried out after the colour has faded. Changing water between doses is not recommended, except in an emergency.
Anti-Fluke and Wormer
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When to use?
Fish (especially Discus species) are susceptible to internal worms. An obvious sign is when fish become very thin but still continue to feed.
Use when fish become lethargic, fins are clamped, thin looking, gasping and showing signs of rubbing/irritation.
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How to use?
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Increase aeration in the aquarium to maximum.
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Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least 30 seconds.
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Using the pipette provided, add the required dose.
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If the water becomes cloudy, change 50% at a time until the cloudiness goes away.
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The treatment can be repeated once a week up to 4 doses.
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Warning: This product will kill snails, shrimps and other invertebrates.
Swim Bladder Treatment
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When to use?
Fish use their swimbladder for buoyancy and stability. When it becomes infected with Aeromonas or Pseudomonas bacteria, it can cause stress, which may result in death.
Use when fish become lethargic, have clamped fins, are unstable in the water, hanging at the surface or lying on the bottom.
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How to use?
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Calculate the volume of your aquarium in litres (length x width x depth (in cm)/1000). Alternatively, use our Dosage Calculator to help you.Shake the bottle thoroughly before use.
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Mix required dose of treatment with 1 litre of aquarium water.
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Add slowly to aquarium.
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Treatment can be repeated 7 days after last dose. If you feel a second dose is required, first check your diagnosis is correct, test your water quality using NT Labs Test Kits and carry out a 30% partial water change.
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Warning:
This product will colour the water yellow. It will also stain skin and clothing, but is harmless to filter bacteria and all species of fish and plants. Water changes can be performed after 5 days of treatment to remove any remaining colour.
Pond Range - Water Treatments
Aquaclear - Blanketweed & Algae Control
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When to use?
To prevent the growth of unsightly green algae and blanket weed. Aquaclear uses a long lasting blue dye which restricts the light from the sun penetrating through the water column therefore cutting off the light source which causes algae and blanket weed to grow.
Aquaclear is harmless to all other forms of life in the pond.
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How to use?
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Shake bottle well.
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For best results use in spring before the algae becomes too established or use Magiclear first to clarify the water. For complete control repeated additions should be made monthly as the colour fades. Water becomes a subtle blue colour and leaves your pond plants unharmed.
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Mix the correct dose in a clean bucket of pond water, then pour evenly around the pond.
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Warning:
Avoid staining clothing.
For use in ornamental ponds only.
Aquasure - Tap Water Chlorine Remover
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When to use?
Domestic tap water can contain various substances which are harmful to pond life, the most dangerous of these being chlorine and chloramine. Use Aquasure when you top up your pond or when filling for the first time with tap water.
Aquasure will safely neutralise chlorine, chloramine, other halogens and heavy metals toxic to fish and can help to reduce shock during transportation.
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How to use?
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Shake bottle well.
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Mix the correct dose in a clean bucket of pond water, and then pour evenly around the pond before topping up/filling with tap water.
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If refilling using a hosepipe, use enough Aquasure to treat the entire volume of the pond. Alternatively, use Aquasure on smaller volumes of water prior to adding to your pond.
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Warning:
For use in ornamental ponds only.
This product cannot be overdosed.
Magiclear - Clears Green & Cloudy Water
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When to use?
When water appears green and/or cloudy. Magiclear causes particles in the water to clump together which can then easily settle out of suspension or be removed by the filter.
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How to use?
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Test the pH and KH of the water.
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Aerate pond well e.g. fountain, waterfall or air pump. Conduct a partial water change (as much as is practical) before use, especially if the water is extremely green, like “pea soup”.
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Switch off pump only if strong flow rate could prevent particles from clumping but remember to switch back on as soon as water clarifies.
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Mix the correct dose in a clean bucket of pond water, then pour evenly around the pond.
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Clean the collected particles from the filter after treatment.
Without a filter, some clumps may float and can then be removed using a net. Use when you have plenty of time to observe the fish and take action in the unlikely event of a reaction.
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Do not:
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Do not use when the dissolved oxygen may be low (e.g. at daybreak, in hot, humid or thundery weather, or within three hours of feeding).
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Do not use if the KH is below 6 or the pH is below 7.
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Do not use if there is nitrite in the water.
Warning:
Failure to conduct a partial water change on extremely green water, like “pea soup”, may result in a rapid reduction in oxygen which could be dangerous to fish! For more information on this subject visit our knowledge hub.
Mature - Live Filter Bacteria
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Live Filter Bacteria (Mature) includes 7 key species of beneficial bacteria including Nitrosomonas spp., Nitrobacter spp., and Nitrospira spp. These bacteria will aid effective biological filtration.
Adding this product will help support the health of your pond, and also help maintain acceptable water parameters.
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When to use?
When establishing a new filter, adding new fish to a pond or at the beginning of the season to help kick start the filter after winter dormancy or medicinal treatment.
Use Mature if ammonia or nitrite are above zero or after cleaning the filter. Can be used weekly to maintain a natural, unfiltered pond.
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How to use?
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Shake bottle well.
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Use double dose at start of season or when establishing a new pond/filter.
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Add the required dose directly into the filter, if present.
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Can be used weekly to control spikes in ammonia and nitrite.
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Use NT Labs Test Kits to monitor water quality.
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Warning:
This product cannot be overdosed.
Sludgeclear - Sludge Remover
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When to use?
When there is a build-up of sludge on the bottom of the pond, use after addition of algae and blanket weed treatments.
Sludgeclear is a blend of enzymes and bacteria designed to digest organic material leading to a cleaner pond and filter with fewer opportunities for disease- causing organisms to hide. Sludgeclear supports and encourages the activity of the biological filter bacteria.
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How to use?
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Shake bottle well.
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Mix the correct dose in a clean bucket of pond water, then pour evenly around the pond.
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Use Sludgeclear regularly during the pond season to help keep your filter and pond clean.